The summer heat has lifted, the tourist crowds have gone and the air smells of salt and fresh citrus. This was Sicily in autumn. This was the missing piece of our Italy discovery and a destination we had saved for the off-season.
💡Our “Real over Perfect” Philosophy: Travel isn’t always a Pinterest-perfect sunset. Sometimes it’s navigating through systemic trash issues or seeing abandoned villas. In this guide, we’re sharing the unfiltered Sicily—the beautiful Etna views and the citrus groves, but also the “controlled chaos” of the roads and the reality of island life.
Why Autumn is the Ultimate Time for Sicily
We knew visiting Sicily during the peak summer months would challenge our commitment to Slow Travel. The heat and the tourist crowds often turn a road trip into a survival mission. That is why we chose October—a time that allowed us to move at our own pace.
The decision paid off the moment we landed in Catania. As we began our drive, Mount Etna became our companion that followed us all the way. But it was the arrival at our agriturismo, a clementine farm, that truly sealed the deal.
Sicily in October means harvest season. Biting into a clementine that tasted of pure Sicilian sun, we realized we had found the “real” Sicily. Afterwards we knew: this 10-day Sicily road trip was going to become one of our favorite family adventures.
Our 10-Day Sicily TRAVEL ITINERARY
To truly experience the Mediterranean’s largest island, a quick trip won’t work. We spent 10 full days (excluding arrival/departure), which allowed us to apply our slow travel philosophy.
Our opinion: 10 days is the “sweet spot” for focusing on the East, Northwest and Southeast coasts. However, if you want to include the far West (Trapani) and the entire Northern coast, we recommend budgeting 14 days.
Here is an overview of our Sicily travel itinerary by days, regions and our activities:
| Days | Region | Our Base Location | Activity |
| Day 1 | East Coast | Mascali (Agriturismo) | Visit to Honey Farm in Zafferana Etnea. Walking tour: Castelmola & Taormina with Dinner. |
| Day 2 | East Coast | Mascali | Visit to Savoca: The village of Godfather. Catania city tour with Dinner. |
| Day 3 | East Coast | Mascali | Mount Etna Adventure & chilling at Agriturismo. Dinner in Zaffarena Etnea. |
| Day 4 | East Coast → West Coast | Travel/Terrasini (Apartment) | Travel day: Stop at Sicilia Outlet Village & Discovering Cefalu with Dinner. |
| Day 5 | Northwest | Terrasini | Walking at Mondello Beach, Monte Pellegrino Viewing Point & Palermo city tour and dinner. |
| Day 6 | Northwest | Terrasini | Exploration of the northern coast: Scopello & Castellammare del Golfo. Dinner in Palermo. |
| Day 7 | Northwest | Terrasini | Ancient history: Segesta Temple and visiting Monreale. Dinner in Palermo. |
| Day 8 | Northwest →Southeast | Travel/Avola (B&B) | Travel Day: Stop at Scala dei Turchi cliffs, Buffalo Farm experience and Ragusa walking tour. |
| Day 9 | Southeast | Avola | Deep dive into Ancient & Baroque history in Syracuse and Noto. Dinner in Avola. |
| Day 10 | Southeast | Avola | Modica Walking Tour, Chocolate Tasting & Discovering Marzamemi. Dinner in Noto. |
DETAILED ITINERARY AND OUR PERSONAL HIGHLIGHTS
1. East Sicily (4 days)
The East Coast was our introduction to Sicily, and it set a high bar. Landing in Catania and picking up our car was seamless. But the real adventure began the moment we headed north toward Mascali. Looking back, the main item of our four days here was definitely the presence of Mount Etna. While some see a volcano as a destructive force, Etna looks beautiful in the landscape.
Our Base: The Agriturismo – A Clementine Farm
Instead of staying in Catania or the expensive Taormina, we chose an Agriturismo in Mascali, called ‘Le Case Di Civi’. This turned out to be the best “Slow Travel” decision of the trip. Waking up to the smell of clementines and seeing Mount Etna in the distance is an unforgettable memory.
🍊 A Foodie’s Paradise: Our stay at the clementine farm was just the beginning of our culinary adventure. If you want to know more about the volcanic honey we found nearby or why the oranges here taste so different, check out our Sicily Slow Food Guide: The Best Farms & Local Flavors.
This Agriturismo, owned by Salvo and his family, offers a farm experience across 12 hectares of citrus and olive groves. The four independent houses are spread across the gated property, ensuring complete privacy. While the houses are rustic—they are farmhouses, not luxury villas, featuring basic, spacious rooms and private kitchens. The farm also offers a pool and tennis court, making it a perfect, safe retreat for nature lovers and families.
The farm also offers a pool and tennis court, making it a perfect retreat for nature lovers and families.
Taormina & Castelmola: The Glamorous Duo
Taormina is beautiful, but it can feel like a movie set. We did a quick walking tour in the evening. However, spent more time in Castelmola, the tiny village located even higher above.
The drive up to Castelmola is thrilling. The views over the coastline are beautiful to those in Taormina, and the vibe is much more relaxed.
We headed back down to Taormina for dinner to see the town glow at night. However, we recommend parking in the large multi-story garage at the town entrance to avoid the narrow-street stress.
💡Real over Perfect: Taormina is stunning, but it is expensive and crowded even in October. If you want the views without the €10 espressos, head to Castelmola instead!”
Catania: The “Black Baroque” City
While Taormina is the polished postcard of the East, Catania is the unfiltered reality.
Our visit to Catania was an intense experience—exceptionally crowded, almost feeling as though all of Catania had come here. However, the city itself was fascinating. What immediately struck us was the prevalence of dark, black rock used in the architecture. This is why Catania is often called the “Black City”, with its buildings built from the cooled lava flows. It’s a visual testament to the volcano’s influence on the city’s character.
Savoca: A Step Into Cinema History
Without a doubt, our favourite discovery was the tiny village of Savoca. Perhaps it was the connection to The Godfather, but the village itself was cute and felt untouched by mass tourism. The pace here was immediately slower. We followed the famous wedding walk from the movie and settled down for a coffee at Bar Vitelli. This is the iconic spot where Al Pacino’s character, Michael Corleone, sits down with his friends. Enjoying a coffee here, was the perfect, mindful moment we were looking for.
Mount Etna: The Soul of the Island
We had planned booking a guided tour to the summit. However, after seeing the weather changing—sunny one day, cloudy and windy the next—we opted against pre-booking. We decided to let the volcano tell us what was possible.
The journey itself became an important part of the experience. Driving up the Strada Provinciale 92 toward the Funivia dell’Etna station was breathtaking. The landscape transformed from forest to steppeland, eventually giving surreal stretches of dried lava ash. In autumn, the colours were magnificent, mixing greens and yellows with the deep reds and browns of the decaying vegetation.
We arrived at the station early, ready to buy tickets (2025 ticket prices: €80 per person). However, strong winds had shut down the cable car for the morning. This challenge turned into our unique highlight: the station arranged transportation via specialized off-road trucks to the upper station. This was far more thrilling than a cable car! These powerful vehicles drove up the bumpy volcanic terrain, giving us a unique perspective of the lava desert.
At the upper station, the strong winds had dropped the temperature sharply. We were instructed to stay close to the station, but even doing a short 200-meter walk was an extreme challenge. The fine volcanic sand was blasted everywhere, hurting our eyes and getting into every fold of clothing.
When we finished, the cable cars were running again, but the wind was still there. The short 15-minute ride felt like an hour as the car rattled and shaking us. Our day on Etna was a reminder that in nature, you must be ready to adapt. Sometimes, the best adventures are the ones you didn’t plan for.
Activities We Skipped: Alcantara Gorges & Bronte
We also want to share activities we chose to skip, proving that sometimes, less is more.
We ultimately decided against visiting the Alcantara Gorges. As the weather was quite chilly, getting into the water canyon was not the comfortable experience we were hoping for.
We skipped the drive to Bronte (known as the pistachio capital) due to the over one-hour drive each way. We decided that the time was better spent enjoying our base and the immediate surroundings of Etna.
2. NorthWestern Sicily (4 days)
Leaving the volcano behind, we drove west toward our second base in Terrasini. This region required a completely different approach—it was about history, chaotic urban life and the beaches.
Coastal Escapes: Cefalù & Scopello
Our afternoon in Cefalù was a definite highlight. The late-afternoon sunlight hitting the city walls, together with the waves created a view we won’t forget. The houses around the water strongly reminded us of Vernazza in Cinque Terre, but Cefalù added a different feel.
Exploring its narrow streets felt authentic—quiet, local shops and beautiful old houses everywhere. Looking at the immense Norman Cathedral, that we first truly recognized the deep Norman influence on Sicilian architecture. For sunset, the walk up to the Parco della Rocca viewpoint was the perfect final, mindful moment of the day.
Another quiet escape was breakfast in the village of Scopello. Sitting at a café in the morning sun, with the watersound of the fountain in the background, felt timeless. This was one of our simple, unhurried slow travel moments.
Not all memories are picturesque, but they are authentic. While taking photos at the Belvedere Castellammare del Golfo, another car hit our parking car when driving backwards. Although the damage seemed minor, we called the police to ensure we had a formal report for the rental company.
The experience was completely unexpected: the Sicilian police were extremely helpful and kind, quickly and efficiently creating the official documentation. It completely overturned any notions we had about police bureaucracy in Southern Italy, leaving us with a feeling of relief.
Palermo: A Cultural Collision
Palermo immediately felt different from any other major Italian metropolis. For us it felt like a mix of Naples’ vibrant chaos, Florence’s history, Istanbul’s energetic markets and Granada’s Arabic influences.
The city is a fascinating mix of architectural styles. The Teatro Massimo is an example of Neoclassics, while the Palermo Cathedral brought to mind the Andalusian architecture.
We were right into the chaotic energy:
- Vibrant Markets: Our daytime experience at the markets was intense. The sounds and smells reminded my husband and me of the legendary food markets in Istanbul, where we often shopped.
- The Quattro Canti: By night, the streets around this central Baroque square were filled with people. They were singing, dancing and enjoying drinks—a perfect example of Sicilian the joie de vivre.
- Street Art & Anti-Mafia: We were impressed by the street art and graffiti, particularly the memorials against the Mafia. The police presence ensures the city feels safe, but you can still sense the profound suffering to the anti-mafia movement.
The Monreale Reflection
Our visit to Monreale provided our most profound “Real over Perfect” moment. While the gold mosaics are world-famous, it was a local scene that moved us most. Locals were kissing photos of young men posted on the walls—memorials to those lost in recent clan clashes.
This reminder of the ongoing struggle against organized crime stands in strong contrast to the beauty of the cathedral. It brought home the complex and painful reality of the Sicilian community.
Segesta: The Timeless Doric Temple
Just a short drive from Terrasini lies Segesta, an ancient city that feels suspended in time. Having visited many ruins across Turkey and Italy, we were truly impressed by the Doric Temple here.
Unlike many ancient sites that are surrounded by buildings, Segesta sits alone on a hill. It is arguably the best-preserved Doric temple in the world, with its 36 massive columns still standing in their original shape. The site was well organized, with clean walking paths and fresh flowers planted throughout, making it feel more like a sacred garden than a dusty ruin.
After spending time at the temple, we took the shuttle bus up to the ancient Greek Theater. Located on the Mount Barbaro, the theater offers a panoramic view that stretches deep into the Sicilian mainland and out toward the sea. We spent a quiet moment just sitting on the stone stairs, looking out over the landscape—a perfect example of a “Slow Travel” moment.
Activities We Skipped: Visiting Trapani and Erice
In Northwest Sicily, we decided to skip the western region around Trapani. This meant that we had to miss the famous salt lakes and the medieval village of Erice.
Instead, we spent a wonderful afternoon relaxing on our terrace, simply enjoying the sea view. This choice perfectly aligned with our goal: traveling slower, not just seeing more.
3. South-Eastern Sicily (3 days)
Our final leg took us to the more elegant Baroque cities in Southeast Sicily. Our final base in the B&B in Avola was the perfect jumping-off point for this exploration.
The Scenic Route & The agricultural Heritage
The drive from the West toward the Southeast is where you truly see the “working” soul of Sicily. It is a landscape of contrasts, leading us to one of the most famous—and controversial—sights on the island.
Scala dei Turchi: A Personal Pilgrimage
We visited Scala dei Turchi for two reasons: our connection to geological formations and our own Turkish roots. The name traditionally comes from the Saracen pirates who used these white marl cliffs to invade the island.
While the view is iconic, the reality of visiting Scala dei Turchi was a classic “Real over Perfect” moment. Nature lovers should be warned: the site faces significant challenges.
Like much of the island, the entry paths s full of abandoned plastic and trash. It was sad to see a natural wonder surrounded by neglected litter.
The entry to the site felt chaotic and lacked the structured protection you would expect for a geological treasure.
There is an ongoing controversy regarding the destruction of the marl. Over-tourism has forced authorities to restrict access to parts of the cliff. This is why Slow Travel and “leaving no trace” are so essential.
The Agricultural Heart Of Sicily
Leaving the coast, we drove inland toward Avola, bypassing the main highways. This is where you meet the working class Sicily. We drove for miles through the agricultural center, where thousands of plastic-covered greenhouses create a strange view. Passing by the farms, we realized that this mainland is the region that keeps Sicily alive.
🥗 Taste the Landscape: The agricultural heart of Sicily is also the place where you can find the best flavors. We visited an incredible organic Buffalo Farm near Ragusa (the mozzarella was life-changing!) and spent time with a local beekeeper on the slopes of Etna. If you want the full story on these farms and our favorite local dishes, head over to our Sicily Slow Food Guide: The Best Farms & Authentic Flavors.
The Baroque Triangle: Noto, Modica & Ragusa
The whole of the Noto Valley is a UNESCO masterpiece. Walking through these towns was like stepping onto a specially designed set. The Baroque architecture, built in honey-coloured stone, looked beautiful, especially as the sun began to set.
These three cities were rebuilt in a unified, theatrical Baroque style after a devastating earthquake in 1693. Each has a distinct personality:
Noto: Often called a “stone garden,” Noto is the most elegant of the three. We recommend visiting in the late afternoon when the limestone buildings glow a deep, honey-gold.
Modica: Built into the sides of a steep canyon, Modica is a vertical maze. We spent our time exploring its “higher” and “lower” districts. Modica was a highlight, particularly the unexpected cultural event we witnessed. Seeing local families—all elegantly dressed for a Sunday church event—made the town feel like a cherished community.
Ragusa Ibla: The “old” part of Ragusa is a masterpiece of winding alleys and hidden gardens. It’s one of the most cinematic spots on the island and perfect for a slow, mindful walking tour.
Syracuse & Ortigia: Where History Breathes
We were impressed by Syracuse, which offers a perfect mix of past and present. The Greek history, the Baroque buildings, the food markets and the seaside atmosphere of the peninsula created a unique experience.
We walked the narrow lanes to reach the Piazza del Duomo—where a Baroque cathedral is built directly into the columns of an ancient Temple of Athena.
Also, seeing the massive Greek Theater and the “Ear of Dionysius” cave is essential for understanding Sicily’s ancient soul.
Marzamemi: The Seaside Soul
We spent an afternoon in Marzamemi, an ancient fishing village with an old Tonnara (tuna processing plant).
The central piazza, decorated with colorful chairs and potted plants, is the definition of “Slow Travel.” It’s the perfect place to sit and reflect on the journey.
Activities We Skipped: Vendicari Nature Reserve
In accepting the unexpected, we had to forgo one of our final visits: Vendicari Nature Reserve. We were disappointed to find the park closed, meaning we missed the chance to see the famous flamingos. It was a reminder that even off-season travel requires flexibility!
Sicily Road Trip Planning: Logistics & “Our Wheels”
Choosing the right logistics was crucial for a sustainable experience. We flew EasyJet from Berlin to Catania (CTA) and secured a rental car through Avis.
Highways: Surprisingly Modern
We were impressed by the quality of the main highways. Many are brand new and toll-free thanks to EU funding (InvestEU). However, the “real” Sicily is found off the beaten path. Pro Tip: Take the regional roads through the agricultural heartland. Between Agrigento and Avola, you’ll see thousands of plastic-covered greenhouses—a visual of the island’s intense modern food production.
While we highly recommend a car for maximum freedom and accessing rural Agriturismos, it’s possible to travel by train. Trenitalia connects many major cities (Palermo, Catania, Syracuse, Messina, etc.). However, the train network does not cover the interior or the more remote coastal towns. If you are focused only on city-to-city travel, the train can be a great. For anything more, a car is essential.
Driving Culture And Parking
Sicilian driving is “controlled chaos.” The traffic reminded me of Istanbul, where a two-lane road suddenly becomes five-lane and rules are more like suggestions. Thankfully, my husband’s experience as an excellent driver meant we navigated Palermo’s traffic madness without issue!
- The Golden Rule: Avoid ZTLs (Zona a Traffico Limitato or Limited Traffic Zones). These areas are monitored by and a mistake can result in an expensive fine sent to your home months later. Always park outside the ZTL and walk in.
- Parking Costs: Sicily is cheaper than the North. You can expect €10–€15 for a full day in a secure garage (compared to €40 in Milan).
- Street Parking: Stick to designated zones. Blue lines are paid and the white lines are technically free but often reserved for residents.
- Check the Pump: The price of fuel is not always the same! We learned the hard way. Servito (full service by an attendant) can cost 10 to 30 cents more per litre than Self (self-service). So always check the pump price! The price per litre is often displayed on the pump in two versions: Self vs. Servito. And many Italian gas stations operate on a schedule where they are: Daytime – Available for both Servito & Self. Nights, Saturdays, and Sundays – Often Self only.
Real over Perfect: The Side of Sicily Guidebooks Skip
As mindful travelers, we can’t overlook the aspects of Sicily that aren’t on postcards.
Sicily Has A Trash Problem
The amount of abandoned trash on the streets is shocking. It’s a systemic issue involving historical reliance on landfills and infrastructure gaps. While local businesses recycle strictly, the “Ecomafia” and legacy corruption have left deep marks on the landscape.
However, the Government is attempting a major overhaul to transition to a Circular Economy model. The new Regional Waste Management Plan includes the construction of new waste-to-energy plants to drastically reduce the reliance on landfills.
Sicily’s Abandoned Homes
You will see many beautiful, neglected houses. This is a result of depopulation (youth moving north) and complicated inheritance laws. In Italy, multiple heirs often inherit one property. If they can’t all agree on a sale or renovation, the house is simply left to the elements.
The widespread availability of property created by these challenges is channeled into two different types of real estate markets:
This unique situation has created two very different paths for Sicily’s historic architecture:
- The €1 House Solution: In remote, dying villages, town councils act as mediators. They acquire ruins from disinterested heirs and sell them for a symbolic €1. The catch? The buyer must commit to a substantial, mandatory renovation to help breathe life back into the community.
- The Investment Opportunity: In areas like Modica, the high volume of listings represents a more robust market. While the challenges of inheritance remain, these properties aren’t ruins—they are prime targets for international buyers.
Gela: A Reminder of Sicily’s Industrial Face
While we mostly share the best sides of the island, our mission is to stay real. On our drive to Avola, we passed through Gela, a city often cited as one of the “ugliest” in Italy. For a traveler seeking slow-paced charm, Gela is a shock to the system.
Crossing the city we were surrounded by depressing, grey block buildings and a palpable sense of neglect. But the true “eye-opener” was leaving the city: the massive Eni petroleum plant that dominates the coastline. It is an industrial landscape that stands in total opposition to the historic, slow-travel Sicily we love.
💡Real over Perfect: Gela isn’t a tourist destination; it’s a working-class industrial hub grappling with a heavy legacy of pollution. However, there is a silver lining. Eni is currently converting the site into a biorefinery to produce clean fuel from waste. It’s a massive step toward greener economy for the region.
Final Reflection: Sicily – An Island of Contrasts
Sicily is not a destination you simply “finish.” After 10 days, we left feeling as though we had only scratched the surface. We traded the summer heat for golden light and the citrus harvest. By choosing Slow Travel, we traded a rushed island loop for meaningful moments—from clementine groves to ancient theaters.
Sicily is not always easy. It can be messy and chaotic — but it is also majestic and authentic. Our Sicily trip taught us that the best moments are found when you embrace the entire picture.
If you love the royal architecture of Sicily’s Baroque cities but want to experience Italy’s ‘Parisian’ side, read our guide to 5 Days in Turin.
Our Sicily Road Trip Route
To help you visualize our journey and plan your own, here’s a customized and useful Google Maps list highlighting our Sicily road trip route, restaurants & places we visited, parking spots and many more. Download to your Google Maps for free:
FAQ: What You Need to Know For Your Sicily Travel Planning
To efficiently cover the island while minimizing daily hotel changes, we structured the trip around 3 accommodation bases. Here are the links to our accommodation:
East Sicily: Agriturismo Le Case de Civi
North-West Sicily: Cocciu d’Amuri
South-East Sicily: Morfeo B&B
We found Sicily to be more affordable than Northern Italy. Private parking garages in cities like Palermo cost about €10–€15 per day—nearly a third of the price in Milan or Florence. Dining out and local “Agriturismo” stays also offer incredible value for the quality you receive.
Yes, Sicily is generally a very safe destination for travelers. While the island’s history with the Mafia is well-known, it rarely affects tourists today—you’ll likely only see its impact in memorials and street art.
Sicilian drivers are assertive, and in cities like Palermo, lane markings are often ignored. However, if you drive defensively and stay alert, it is perfectly manageable.
You can definitely enjoy Etna on your own by driving to Refugio Sapienza (South) or Piano Provenzana (North) and walking the lower craters, like the Silvestri Craters. However, to reach the active summit craters, a certified mountain guide and a 4×4 cable car ticket are mandatory.
While tap water in Sicily is generally safe for brushing teeth and showering, most locals and travelers prefer bottled or filtered water due to the high mineral content and the taste, which can be quite “chlorinated” in certain coastal areas.
