Bologna was the last stop on our three-week summer holiday in Italy. After staying in Piedmont and Tuscany, we were heading toward Milan to fly home, but we couldn’t skip Bologna. Why? Because it was the only city left on our “bucket list” of the ten largest cities in Italy!
We arrived in August, right after the Ferragosto week. Just like Turin, which we visited ten days earlier, the city felt quieter as usual. But the vibe was totally different. While Turin is “white and bright” with its royal Baroque buildings, Bologna is “red and brown” with its old bricks.
🏛️ Royal Elegance or Medieval Spirit? Why You Need to See Both Turin and Bologna! To truly feel the contrast between the royal “White” streets of the North and the medieval “Red” soul of Bologna, we recommend visiting both. Use our Turin City Guide to plan your journey between these two unique Italian icons.
Even though it’s a medieval city like Florence, it didn’t feel like a tourist trap. In Florence, you are surrounded by crowds, but in Bologna, we felt the “intellectual cool” of the university. It’s not about high fashion or perfect sights; it’s about the “real” atmosphere. We realized quickly: the older and less perfect the buildings looked, the more we wanted to slow down and look for the small details.
Walk thRough Bologna with Us
Before we dive into the details of our trip, we want to show you what Bologna actually looks like. We put together a short walking tour video to capture the warm colors of the brick walls and the relaxed energy of the students. Grab a coffee, click play and join us for a stroll through the “Red City”.
The Three Souls of Bologna
Before you can understand Bologna, you have to know its three nicknames. They aren’t just titles; they are the DNA of the city.
La Rossa (The Red): This was the first thing we saw. Unlike the bright, royal stone of Turin, Bologna is built from local terracotta. It creates a “Red Hug” that makes the medieval alleys feel warm and lived-in.
La Dotta (The Learned): This is home to the oldest university in the Western world (founded in 1088!). You can feel this “intellectual cool” everywhere—from the students sitting on ancient stone steps to the relaxed, easy-going vibe of the locals.
La Grassa (The Fat): Bologna is the food capital of Italy. We didn’t just come for the history; we came for the handmade pasta and the rich flavors that earned the city this delicious title.
La Rossa: Discovering Bologna’s “Red Soul”
Knowing the history of “The Red City” is one thing, but seeing it for the first time is another. After our 20-minute walk under the protective porticoes, we entered the center on Via Ugo Bassi. The transition was instant. Suddenly, the “Red Hug” wasn’t just a nickname—it was everywhere.
As we walked, the right side of the street opened up into a beautiful display of medieval brick and hidden corners:
- Cortile Canal Cestelli & Fontana Vecchia: Small, quiet spots that feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The “Old Fountain” is tucked away, showing the city’s ancient relationship with water.
- Biblioteca Salaborsa: This isn’t just a library; it’s a cultural hub housed in a grand palace. If you look through the glass floors inside, you can actually see the ancient Roman ruins beneath your feet!
The Heart of the City: Piazza Maggiore
A few more steps and the narrow street opened up into the massive, breathtaking Piazza Maggiore. This is the living room of Bologna, where the “Learned” and “Fat” souls of the city finally meet.
We found ourselves surrounded by giants:
- The Neptune Fountain: A symbol of the city. Locally known as Il Gigante, this bronze masterpiece by Giambologna is full of power (and some very cheeky details if you look from the right angle!).
- Palazzo d’Accursio: The Town Hall that looks more like a fortress. Its clock tower has watched over the square for centuries.
- Basilica di San Petronio: One of the largest churches in the world. You’ll notice the facade is “half-finished”—the bottom is beautiful white and red marble, while the top remains plain brick. It’s a perfect example of Bologna’s “Real over Perfect” charm.
The Leaning Towers and the Merchant’s Palace
After leaving the piazza, we walked down Via Rizzoli. This is where you really see the scale of the “Red City” because you are heading straight toward the Two Towers (Le Due Torri). These are the icons of Bologna, but they aren’t exactly perfect. In fact, the smaller one, Garisenda, is leaning so much that the whole area around it is closed for construction.
It’s a very Italian problem—building massive brick towers on soft ground 900 years ago and then trying to stop them from falling over today. It reminded us a bit of the Tower of Pisa, but because these are made of dark red brick, they feel much more “medieval” and raw.
Just a few steps away is the Palazzo della Mercanzia. This was the old Chamber of Commerce from the 1300s. It’s a beautiful red building with big Gothic windows, but it has a bit of a scary history. Back in the day, if a merchant was caught being dishonest, they would ring a special bell and punish them right there in front of everyone. It’s a good reminder that while the architecture is beautiful, Bologna has always been a “real” city for workers and traders.
La Dotta: Feeling The intellectual Soul of Bologna
The presence of the University of Bologna is the heartbeat of this city. Founded in 1088, it is the oldest university in the Western world. To give you an idea of the scale, the city has about 400,000 residents and nearly 90,000 of them are students. This massive student population is why we saw so many young people, alternative artists and endless bookshops. It’s a city that prioritizes ideas and conversation over impressive facades.
The rebellious soul of Bologna
This intellectual background also explains why Bologna has a unique political identity. For a long time, the city has been a stronghold for social democrats, which is another reason it is called the “Red City“. It is a place that is proud of social justice and international solidarity.
We felt this solidarity ourselves when we reached Piazza Maggiore. As a family with Turkish roots and social democratic values, we were surprised and moved to see a big banner on the City Hall. It told the story of Ekrem İmamoğlu, the opposition leader in Turkey who was arrested a few weeks prior our vacation.
In that moment, Bologna was more than just a holiday stop. It felt like a city that “understood” us—a place that uses its most famous square to stand up for democracy far away. It made us feel proud and connected to the “Learned” and rebellious soul of the city.
La Grassa: Why Bologna is the Culinary Heart of Italy
You can’t talk about Bologna without talking about why it is called La Grassa (The Fat). This nickname isn’t an insult; it’s a badge of honor. While other cities might focus on light Mediterranean flavors, Bologna is the land of rich, handmade egg pasta, savory meats and aged cheeses.
The city is the birthplace of some of the most famous Italian exports:
- Tagliatelle al Ragù: Never called “Spaghetti Bolognese” here! It must be wide, flat egg pasta that holds onto the rich meat sauce.
- Mortadella: The original, silky pork cold cut that inspired what much of the world knows as “Bologna” sausage.
- Tortellini: Tiny, hand-folded pockets of pasta often served in a simple, hot broth.
Our Favorite Restaurant: Va Mo Là
After exploring the red streets and the university energy, we ended our evenings at a place that perfectly combined the “Learned” and “Fat” souls of the city: Va Mo Là.
The interior felt less like a busy restaurant and more like a cozy, private library. It was filled with bookshelves and sturdy wooden chairs, creating a relaxed atmosphere. It clearly wasn’t a secret, though—every time we were there, people were being turned away because there were no seats left. Luckily, we had a reservation for both nights!
We ordered a mix of dishes that felt like a tour of the region’s best flavors:
- Balanzoni with Ricotta and Mortadella: These are like large, green tortellini (the color comes from spinach in the dough). Filling them with ricotta and mortadella is a classic Bolognese move—rich, creamy and full of history.
- Tagliatelle al Ragù and Lasagna: We had to try the gold standards. The ragù was deep and savory, exactly what you expect from a city that has perfected meat sauce over centuries.
- Vegetable Platter with Local Cheese: This was the perfect way to balance the heavy pasta, featuring the incredible cheeses that come from the surrounding Emilia-Romagna countryside.
Eating there twice gave us a chance to really slow down. By the second night, the friendly staff and the familiar bookshelves made us feel less like tourists and more like we had found our own little corner of Bologna.
🍝 Taste More of Italy: If you love discovering a city through its flavors, you’ll want to explore our Italian Food Hub. We dive deeper into the regional specialties, local markets and the stories behind Italy’s most famous dishes.
Our Family Reflection
Looking back, Bologna was the perfect final stop for our summer adventure. While it was the last of the ten largest Italian cities on our list, it certainly wasn’t the least. We arrived looking for history, but we found a city that felt like a warm, welcoming home.
Each of us took away a different favorite memory:
- For me, it was the perfect mix of culture and food. Between the “Learned” political heart of the city and the rich flavors of La Grassa, I felt a deep connection to the local soul.
- My husband was in heaven with his camera. From the “Red Hug” of the medieval alleys to the dramatic lean of the Two Towers, the city provided endless photo spots that captured that “Real over Perfect” beauty.
- Our daughter found her own adventure in the narrow streets. Her highlight was definitely the shopping, especially discovering the world’s largest Scout store. We ended up spending almost two hours exploring its massive, cool interior—a perfect escape from the August heat!
Bologna didn’t try to impress us with royal polish or tourist traps. Instead, it invited us to slow down, look at the small details and enjoy the “imperfect” charm of a city that truly lives. We left feeling like we didn’t just visit Bologna; we understood it.
✈️ Planning Your Next City Trip? Bologna was the perfect finale for our big Italy trip, but there are so many more “real” cities waiting to be discovered. Check out our City Breaks guide for more inspiration on slow travel and authentic weekend getaways.
FAQ: Bologna Practical Tips
Bologna earned the nickname La Rossa for its terracotta-brick medieval architecture, which creates a warm “red hug” throughout the streets. It also refers to the city’s historic political identity as a stronghold for social democracy.
Yes, 48 hours is perfect for a slow-travel experience. You can explore the major landmarks like Piazza Maggiore and the Two Towers, enjoy authentic tagliatelle al ragù, and still have time for a relaxed walking tour of the university district.
As the food capital (La Grassa), you must try handmade Tagliatelle al Ragù (never called “Spaghetti Bolognese”), silk-textured Mortadella, and Tortellini in broth. For an authentic local meal, we recommend Va Mo Là near the university.
Bologna offers a more “intellectual cool” and is less crowded than Florence. It feels more like a real, lived-in city, making it ideal for mindful travellers. However, Florence remains our most favorite city in the world.
The Asinelli Tower is the famous one you can usually climb for city views. However, the smaller Garisenda Tower is currently under observation for structural stability, and the area around it may be restricted—a perfect example of Bologna’s raw, medieval charm.
