Piedmont is the birthplace of the Slow Food movement. Founded in the 1980s in the small town of Bra, the movement was a protest against fast food and a plea to preserve local traditions, biodiversity and the simple joy of a long meal.
We discovered these culinary highlights during our 8-Day Road Trip to Piedmont and the Aosta Valley. To be honest, we only knew a few facts before we arrived: we knew the region was famous for truffles and wine, and we knew that hazelnuts were special here because Ferrero and Nutella call this place home. What we didn’t expect was just how incredibly diverse and deeply tasty the everyday food would be.
During our week-long journey, we realized that in Piedmont, “Slow Food” isn’t a marketing slogan—it’s a way of life. Here is everything you need to know about the flavors of the north, combined with our personal highlights.
The Red Trinity: Understanding the Nebbiolo Grape
The soul of Piedmontese wine is the Nebbiolo grape. Its name comes from nebbia (fog), which blankets the vineyards during the autumn harvest. Nebbiolo is a “diva” grape—it is difficult to grow and requires specific soil and altitude, which is why the UNESCO-listed hills of Langhe-Roero are so precious.
- Barolo (The King): Must be 100% Nebbiolo and aged for at least 38 months. It is known for its high tannins and complex aromas of “tar and roses.”
- Barbaresco (The Queen): Also 100% Nebbiolo, but grown in slightly warmer soil, resulting in a softer, more approachable wine.
- Barbera: The “people’s wine.” It’s high in acidity, low in tannin and meant to be enjoyed fresh and often.
While we skipped the formal winery tours, we made sure to try these local wines during our dinners. Even in the 35°C August heat, a glass of Barolo felt like a true investment in the local culture.
Piedmontese Gold: Roasted Hazelnuts
Piedmont is the world capital of the Nocciola di Piemonte IGP. These hazelnuts (specifically the Tonda Gentile Trilobatavariety) are globally renowned for their quality, high oil content and intense aroma when roasted. It is no surprise that the Ferrero company—the creators of Nutella and Ferrero Rocher—is based right here in Alba!
Walking through the Langhe-Roero region, you realize that hazelnut trees are just as iconic as the grapevines. We spent hours hiking directly through these orchards, which provided a unique, leafy shade that felt different from the open vineyard paths.
During our walking tours, we started picking up the fresh hazelnuts that had fallen to the ground. They became our snack—cracking them open as we walked through the fields where they grew. It was the freshest, most authentic snack we’ve ever had on a hike.
We were a bit disappointed to find the Ferrero factory store closed during the Ferragosto holiday (the two weeks around August 15th), but the experience of picking our own “wild” hazelnuts in the fields more than made up for it!
Even if you don’t visit a factory, the city of Alba itself is legendary. As you walk the historic streets, you are often greeted by the sweet, chocolatey aroma of roasting hazelnuts in the air.
A Visual Tour of the Langhe
To truly understand the “Slow Food” philosophy of Piedmont, you have to see where it begins. Watch as we drive through the protected Piedmont Hazelnut (IGP) groves and the steep Nebbiolo vineyards that surround the village of Barolo.
The Piedmont Pasta Heritage: Agnolotti del Plin and Tajarin
Unlike Southern Italy, where pasta is often just flour and water, Piedmontese pasta is famously rich, often using an incredible number of egg yolks.
- Agnolotti del Plin: These are miniature, meat-filled pasta pockets. Plin means “pinch” in the local dialect, referring to how the pasta is sealed.
- Tajarin: Long, thin ribbons of golden egg pasta, typically served with a simple sage and butter sauce or a rich meat ragù.
Our daughter was obsessed with Agnolotti del Plin. She ordered them almost every single day!
Agnolotti del Plin Recipe
🥟 Recipe: Agnolotti del Plin
The Ingredients:
- The Pasta: 300g “00” flour and 3 eggs (or 10 yolks for extra richness).
- The Filling: Roasted veal or pork, finely minced with spinach.
- The Sauce: Fresh sage leaves and high-quality butter.
How to make it:
- The Dough: Mix flour and eggs. Knead until smooth. Rest for 30 mins.
- Roll: Roll dough extremely thin—you should almost see through it.
- Fill: Place hazelnut-sized dots of filling 2cm apart on the sheet.
- The Plin: Fold over and “pinch” the dough between each dot of filling.
- Cut: Use a jagged pasta wheel to cut along the pinches. Boil for 3 mins.
We also tried Bicolor Gnocchi smothered in a velvety sauce made from Castelmagno DOP (an ancient alpine cheese). The depth of flavor was a real treat for the senses.
The Piedmontese Icon: Vitello Tonnato
This dish is a masterpiece of “surf and turf” that dates back to the 18th century. It consists of cold, thinly sliced poached veal topped with a creamy, savory sauce made from tuna, capers, anchovies and egg yolks. Historically, it was a way to add a luxurious, umami-rich punch to meat using preserved pantry staples.
This quickly became my husband’s favorite appetizer. It is the perfect summer lunch. The chilled, savory Vitello Tonnato was unexpectedly sophisticated and incredibly refreshing.
The Cheese Heritage In Piedmont: Alpine Tradition & French Influence
Piedmont is a paradise for cheese because of its geography. You have the high Alpine pastures (perfect for aged cow’s milk cheeses) and the rugged hills of the Langhe (perfect for goats and sheep).
Unlike the rest of Italy, which is dominated by Pecorino (sheep) or Parmigiano (cow), Piedmont has a massive tradition of Caprino (goat cheese). This is due to the French influence and the fact that goats were easier to raise on the steep, rocky slopes of the hills.
We realized that in Piedmont, the cheese platter isn’t an afterthought—it’s a dedicated event. We loved how the local servers could tell us exactly which valley and which animal each wedge came from.
As a cheese lover, the regional cheese platters were my absolute favorite part of every meal. I was fascinated by the variety:
- Robiola di Roccaverano DOP: This is the “Queen” of Italian goat cheeses. It’s a soft, fatty cheese that has been made since the time of the Celts. It can be eaten fresh (very creamy and tangy) or aged (more intense and spicy).
- Castelmagno DOP: An ancient Alpine cheese that is crumbly and often has a natural blue vein. It’s so prestigious, it’s often referred to as “the king of Italian cheeses.”
- Tomino al Verde: We also discovered Tomino, a small, soft cow’s milk cheese often served with bagnet verde (a green sauce made of parsley, garlic and anchovies). It’s a classic Piedmontese appetizer that perfectly balances the creamy cheese with the herb sauce.
Local Drink: Mole Cola
Turin is a city of independent spirit. Mole Cola was created as a Piedmontese alternative to global brands, taking its name from the city’s iconic symbol, the Mole Antonelliana.
This quickly became our daughter’s favorite soft drink. It’s a fun, local detail that makes a city trip feel that much more “Turinese.”
Where to Eat: Our Favorite Dining Moments & Dishes
Here are the specific spots and dishes that defined our trip, from professional trattorias to a mother’s kitchen.
The Family Experience: Dinner at Cascina Pajanòt
If you want to understand “Slow Food,” you have to eat at a family-run agriturismo. Our final night at Cascina Pajanot in Borgomale was the most memorable meal of our entire journey.
Georgia’s mother (the family who manages the agriturismo) cooked a full-course traditional menu using recipes passed down through generations. There was no “rush”—just the sound of the clinking wine glasses.
We ate a parade of regional classics including eggplant appetizers, handmade Gnocchi, local Cheese platters and Tajarin.
The Agnolotti del Plin were the stars—tiny, meat-filled pillows. Eating them while overlooking the very fields where the ingredients were sourced was a “Real over Perfect” moment we’ll never forget.
Our Favorite Gelato in the World: Gelateria La Romana
We have to talk about our daily ritual in Turin. Gelateria La Romana isn’t just an ice cream shop; it became our most favorite gelato spot in the world. We loved it so much that we found ourselves going back twice a day. Every single flavor we tried was a masterpiece, but it wasn’t just about the taste.
The atmosphere in the shop is vibrant and the service is exceptionally kind and professional. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel the “joy of life” that defines Italian summers. If you are in Turin, this is non-negotiable!
🏰 Ready to explore Turin? If you’re heading to the city for that gelato, make sure to read our 5-Day Turin City Break Guide. We’ve mapped out the most elegant piazzas and how to spend a perfect family week in Italy’s most underrated city.
Turin’s Best Local Vibes: Piola da Cianci
If you want to experience the authentic energy of a Turin evening, you have to visit Piola da Cianci. This was one of our favorite finds in the city.
Located on a lively piazza, it offers a buzzy, casual atmosphere. We absolutely loved sitting outside during the warm summer nights, enjoying the energy of the crowd.
It is incredible value for simple, delicious Piedmontese food. They serve small portions, which allowed us to sample a bit of everything without feeling overwhelmed.
The Tomino cheese with pesto was my total trip favorite. The creamy cheese paired with the fresh, zesty pesto was the perfect match for a cold drink on a summer night. It’s the ultimate spot for anyone looking for “Real over Perfect” dining—no pretension, just great food and a great time.
🚗 Ready to Plan Your Piedmont Road Trip? Now that your taste buds are ready, let’s get your itinerary sorted! Discover our full 8-Day Slow Travel Guide to Piedmont & Aosta Valley, featuring our split-stay strategy, mountain day trips and the best scenic routes through the vineyards.
The FOMO Traveller’s Piedmont Menu Translator
Navigating a traditional Piedmontese menu can feel like a secret code—especially since many dishes use local dialect names. We’ve put together this “cheat sheet” of the most iconic terms we encountered during our trip. Whether you are in a high-end enoteca in Barolo or a cozy piola in Turin, save this list to your phone so you always know exactly what deliciousness is headed to your table!
| Term | What it is |
|---|---|
| Agnolotti del Plin | Small, “pinched” pasta pockets usually filled with meat. |
| Tajarin | Thin, golden, egg-rich ribbon pasta (Piedmontese Tagliolini). |
| Vitello Tonnato | Chilled, sliced veal with a creamy tuna and caper sauce. |
| Battuta di Fassona | High-quality raw beef tartare from local Fassona cattle. |
| Bagnet Verd | Green sauce (parsley/garlic/anchovy) with cheese or meat. |
| Bagna Cauda | A warm garlic and anchovy “hot bath” dip for vegetables. |
| Castelmagno | A crumbly Alpine cow’s milk cheese; the “King” of the region. |
| Robiola di Roccaverano | The famous local goat cheese—creamy, tangy, and fresh. |
| Tomino | Round, soft cheese served grilled or with green sauce. |
| Gianduja | The legendary blend of chocolate and roasted hazelnuts. |
| Bunet | A traditional cocoa and amaretto flan/pudding. |
